The Facts About Keratin Hair Treatments

  
If you Google “Brazilian hair treatments” or “keratin hair treatments” you will see hundreds of message board posts, blog entries and articles on the topic. These treatments are truly “the newest trend in defrizzing and smoothing many textures of hair from curly to relaxed,” says Ted Gibson, a salon owner who recently starting performing the La Brasiliana treatment.

Those who have had keratin hair treatments call them a “miracle” and applaud them for making blow drying and straightening hair much easier for months at a time. But the buzz about the treatments isn’t all positive, mostly because many of the brands on the market contain or initially contained formaldehyde. But as Mauricio Ribeiro, creator of the Brazilian Blowout explains, “[The treatments] have evolved so much.” Saying that customers no longer complain about a strong chemical smell, but that “you need a chemical to make the process work.” Chemist Doug Schoon, president of School Scientific in Dana Point, Calif., agrees. To get “shiny, straight hair for months, formaldehyde or other aldehydes must be used,” he says. Adding that he “believes [clients] have no risk” of being harmed by the treatments.

Bottom line, the choice is yours when it comes to deciding if these treatments are right for you. To make your decision easier, read on to get answers to commonly asked questions about keratin hair treatments and feedback from readers on some of the big-name treatments.
There are so many keratin hair treatments available now, so if we missed one that you love or one that you had a bad experience with, please tell us about it by commenting on this story.

Your Questions Answered: No. 1: What is a keratin hair treatment?

Also known as Brazilian hair treatments, keratin hair treatments are a semi-permanent, hair-smoothing, curl-softening professional chemical treatment. They make hair straighter, shinier and even healthier. The treatments are usually made up of a chemical like formaldehyde (which creates the long-lasting smoothing effect), conditioners, and some keratin (a protein our hair is made of to add strength).

No. 2: How does a keratin hair treatment differ from Japanese straightening?

The Japanese hair straightening treatment (a.k.a. thermal reconditioning) is permanent — it actually changes the internal structure of your hair, removes all curl to create pin-straight strands and may damage hair. On the flip side, keratin hair treatments only last three to six months (depending on the product used and your lifestyle), they only soften curl (though they will straighten waves), eliminate frizz and can make hair healthier over time.

No. 3: What does the treatment involve?

Typically your hair is washed with a clarifying shampoo and blow dried before the treatment is applied section by section, and combed through the hair. Then you may sit for a bit with the treatment on your hair before the stylist blow dries your hair a second time, and seals the treatment onto your strands using a flat iron. Next, one of two things will happen — you’ll either be done and walk out the door knowing you can’t wash your hair, put it in a ponytail, get it wet or put it behind your ears for 72 hours, or the treatment is rinsed out, hair is blow dried and you leave knowing you don’t have to wait any time to style or wash it. The entire process takes two to four hours depending on your hair type and length. (There isn’t really a difference in results between these two styles, just that newer technology is allowing users to wash and style their hair sooner after treatment.)

No. 4: Who’s the best candidate for a keratin hair treatment and who isn’t?

If you spend a ton of time blow drying and flat ironing your hair and/or have curls that you want to loosen, or if your hair has frizz or lacks shine, you’re likely a good candidate. Keratin hair treatments work on a variety of hair textures including African American hair types, and color-treated or previously chemically-treated types, according to Jordana Lorraine, stylist and keratin hair treatment technician at the Dino Clark Salon in Santa Monica, Calif. Do avoid these treatments if you are pregnant, have severely damaged hair from too much bleaching, bleached hair that’s super fine, stick straight fine hair or have slight waves you want to keep intact. Basically, if your hair can stand a 450-degree flat iron, it can handle this treatment.

No. 5: Are keratin hair treatments safe, what’s all the controversy about?

Keratin hair treatments are controversial because some contain/contained formaldehyde, or more correctly, a chemical called formalin (or methylene glycol) that “when heated to 450 degrees can turn back into formaldehyde,” Schoon says. Formaldehyde is on the Department of Health and Human Services’ “Reasonably Anticipated to Be Human Carcinogens” list, and has been linked to certain cancers like leukemia. But Schoon explains that the levels of formaldehyde found in these treatments are safe according to OSHA (Occupational Health and Safety Administration) especially when proper protection and ventilation are used, and this is in regards to the stylists who do many of these treatments weekly. He believes that “in the course of getting their hair done [clients] will never exceed the [safe] limit” of formaldehyde exposure. And that the “only risk is if [clients] have an allergy.” So unless you have an allergy to formaldehyde or other aldehydes — many products on the market use alternatives to formalin that fall in the aldehyde family — Schoon believes you “have no risk” of being harmed by these treatments. And if the salon you go to has special “source capture” ventilation you won’t even experience watery eyes or an irritated throat — common temporary irritations associated with the treatments.

No. 6: If treatments claim to be “formaldehyde free,” what chemical is used instead?

For a keratin treatment to give you shiny, straighter, frizz-free hair for months, Schoon explains that it must contain formalin (formaldehyde) or another aldehyde or a chemical that works in a similar fashion. Common “formaldehyde free” products often contain: glutaraldehyde, biformal (a.k.a. oxalaldehyde — note the “aldehyde”) and ammonium thioglycolate (the same chemical used in perms).

No. 7: How do I know which keratin treatment is best for me?

It’s best to consult with a stylist (most offer this free of charge) because the treatments “offer similar but slightly different results,” says Lorraine who works with three different brands. Depending on your hair texture, the result you want and your lifestyle, some may be better suited for you.