If you Google “Brazilian hair treatments” or “keratin hair
treatments” you will see hundreds of message board posts, blog entries
and articles on the topic. These treatments are truly “the newest trend
in defrizzing and smoothing many textures of hair from curly to
relaxed,” says Ted Gibson, a salon owner who recently starting
performing the La Brasiliana treatment.
Those who have had keratin hair treatments call them a “miracle” and
applaud them for making blow drying and straightening hair much easier
for months at a time. But the buzz about the treatments isn’t all
positive, mostly because many of the brands on the market contain or
initially contained formaldehyde. But as Mauricio Ribeiro, creator of
the Brazilian Blowout explains, “[The treatments] have evolved so much.”
Saying that customers no longer complain about a strong chemical smell,
but that “you need a chemical to make the process work.” Chemist Doug
Schoon, president of School Scientific in Dana Point, Calif., agrees. To
get “shiny, straight hair for months, formaldehyde or other aldehydes
must be used,” he says. Adding that he “believes [clients] have no risk”
of being harmed by the treatments.
Bottom line, the choice is yours when it comes to deciding if these
treatments are right for you. To make your decision easier, read on to
get answers to commonly asked questions about keratin hair treatments
and feedback from readers on some of the big-name treatments.
There are so many keratin hair treatments available now, so if we
missed one that you love or one that you had a bad experience with,
please tell us about it by commenting on this story.
Your Questions Answered: No. 1: What is a keratin hair treatment?
Also known as Brazilian hair treatments, keratin hair treatments are a
semi-permanent, hair-smoothing, curl-softening professional chemical
treatment. They make hair straighter, shinier and even healthier. The
treatments are usually made up of a chemical like formaldehyde (which
creates the long-lasting smoothing effect), conditioners, and some
keratin (a protein our hair is made of to add strength).
No. 2: How does a keratin hair treatment differ from Japanese straightening?
The Japanese hair straightening treatment (a.k.a. thermal
reconditioning) is permanent — it actually changes the internal
structure of your hair, removes all curl to create pin-straight strands
and may damage hair. On the flip side, keratin hair treatments only last
three to six months (depending on the product used and your lifestyle),
they only soften curl (though they will straighten waves), eliminate
frizz and can make hair healthier over time.
No. 3: What does the treatment involve?
Typically your hair is washed with a clarifying shampoo and blow
dried before the treatment is applied section by section, and combed
through the hair. Then you may sit for a bit with the treatment on your
hair before the stylist blow dries your hair a second time, and seals
the treatment onto your strands using a flat iron. Next, one of two
things will happen — you’ll either be done and walk out the door knowing
you can’t wash your hair, put it in a ponytail, get it wet or put it
behind your ears for 72 hours, or the treatment is rinsed out, hair is
blow dried and you leave knowing you don’t have to wait any time to
style or wash it. The entire process takes two to four hours depending
on your hair type and length. (There isn’t really a difference in
results between these two styles, just that newer technology is allowing
users to wash and style their hair sooner after treatment.)
No. 4: Who’s the best candidate for a keratin hair treatment and who isn’t?
If you spend a ton of time blow drying and flat ironing your hair
and/or have curls that you want to loosen, or if your hair has frizz or
lacks shine, you’re likely a good candidate. Keratin hair treatments
work on a variety of hair textures including African American hair
types, and color-treated or previously chemically-treated types,
according to Jordana Lorraine, stylist and keratin hair treatment
technician at the Dino Clark Salon in Santa Monica, Calif. Do avoid
these treatments if you are pregnant, have severely damaged hair from
too much bleaching, bleached hair that’s super fine, stick straight fine
hair or have slight waves you want to keep intact. Basically, if your
hair can stand a 450-degree flat iron, it can handle this treatment.
No. 5: Are keratin hair treatments safe, what’s all the controversy about?
Keratin hair treatments are controversial because some
contain/contained formaldehyde, or more correctly, a chemical called
formalin (or methylene glycol) that “when heated to 450 degrees can turn
back into formaldehyde,” Schoon says. Formaldehyde is on the Department
of Health and Human Services’ “Reasonably Anticipated to Be Human
Carcinogens” list, and has been linked to certain cancers like leukemia.
But Schoon explains that the levels of formaldehyde found in these
treatments are safe according to OSHA (Occupational Health and Safety
Administration) especially when proper protection and ventilation are
used, and this is in regards to the stylists who do many of these
treatments weekly. He believes that “in the course of getting their hair
done [clients] will never exceed the [safe] limit” of formaldehyde
exposure. And that the “only risk is if [clients] have an allergy.” So
unless you have an allergy to formaldehyde or other aldehydes — many
products on the market use alternatives to formalin that fall in the
aldehyde family — Schoon believes you “have no risk” of being harmed by
these treatments. And if the salon you go to has special “source
capture” ventilation you won’t even experience watery eyes or an
irritated throat — common temporary irritations associated with the
treatments.
No. 6: If treatments claim to be “formaldehyde free,” what chemical is used instead?
For a keratin treatment to give you shiny, straighter, frizz-free
hair for months, Schoon explains that it must contain formalin
(formaldehyde) or another aldehyde or a chemical that works in a similar
fashion. Common “formaldehyde free” products often contain:
glutaraldehyde, biformal (a.k.a. oxalaldehyde — note the “aldehyde”) and
ammonium thioglycolate (the same chemical used in perms).
No. 7: How do I know which keratin treatment is best for me?
It’s best to consult with a stylist (most offer this free of charge)
because the treatments “offer similar but slightly different results,”
says Lorraine who works with three different brands. Depending on your
hair texture, the result you want and your lifestyle, some may be better
suited for you.