How do you maintain a sexy celebrity wave, day after day? The hot
perm, or more popularly known as the “Digital Perm” has been the recent
hair craze among Asian women wanting a hipper alternative to old-world
curlers. It’s a sexy, fun and low-maintenance style that can be dressed
up or down. But before you go running to the salon and blowing your hard
earned cash, be aware that the hot perm isn’t for everyone, and if done
incorrectly, can yield unpredictable results.
History Behind the Hot Perm
The hot perm was initially developed in South Korea, quickly spreading
to Japan and gaining massive popularity throughout Asia. The name
“Digital Perm” is actually copyrighted by a Japanese company, PAIMORE
Co. (which is why many stylists will use alternative names to avoid
infringement). Whether it’s referred to as the airwave, the ionic perm,
the Japanese perm, the Korean perm, the spiral perm, the body perm, or
the wave perm—they all promise to give you that tousled, beach-hair
wave.
Difference Between Hot and Cold Perms
The major difference between the hot perm and the cold perm process is
that while the cold perm technique only uses perm solution, the hot perm
uses both perm solution and heat. Hot perms require the curlers to be
attached to a computer that can be digitally programmed to heat up to
specific temperatures, giving your stylist control over the temperature
of the rods, and therefore, control over the curling effect.
The major difference in results between the cold perm and the hot
perm is the type of texture and curl it yields. A normal perm is the
most curly when the hair is wet, and it loosens as the hair dries. With a
normal perm you can achieve tighter, smaller, curls that can start at
the top of your head. The digital perm tends to be straighter when hair
is wet and curlier as it dries. The curls are usually bigger and cannot
be applied to the top of your hair, only the lower half because of the
heat process.
Is the Hot Perm For You?
Cold perm works better with finer, Caucasian hair, while digital perms
are more effective with thicker, coarser hair, like Asian hair in
particular. However, if your hair is “virgin” hair (meaning it hasn’t
been processed before) and extremely thick, digital perms may not stay
put very well. When you curl your hair with a hot curling iron do the
curls last? If the answer is “yes” then your hair will probably suit
well with a digital perm. If “no”, you may want to reconsider since this
is typically an expensive option.
Another important note is that once you have a hot perm, it’s very
difficult to straighten your hair. If you like the option of changing
your hair styles from day to day, you may want to reconsider.
How Long Will it Take?
This depends on the size of the curlers, but the whole process can take
anywhere from two to four hours. Be mindful that you cannot wash your
hair for two days thereafter. Also, be prepared to potentially endure a
very curly look for the few days following, as it takes a while for the
curls to loosen.
Styling
A hot perm is a low-maintenance hair option that doesn’t need much
styling. In fact, the less, the better. Try to avoid blow drying which
will cause stress to your already-processed hair. Brushing a hand
through your hair should be enough for everyday looks. If you want more
structure and definition, revive curls by twirling them around your
finger. Use a little bit of hair spray to hold them in place.
Brushes
When it comes to buying appropriate brushes for your hot perm, look for
bristles that are made with organic materials if possible. If this isn’t
an option opt for metal bristles that offer flexibility and ball-tips
like a paddle brush. When using your brush, slowly work your way from
your ends to the scalp to prevent snagging of the hair.
How to Care
When you undergo any type of perm you are essentially damaging the outer
protective layer of your hair, so it is extremely important to start a
good hair routine to prevent further damage. After shampooing and
conditioning the ends of your hair, comb a leave-in treatment
specifically formulated for permed or curled hair. Make sure to buy
products that treat the broken outer-layer of your hair that are
specifically made for treated hair (avoid alcohol-based products as they
further strip the hair shaft).
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